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Top Tips

01 Once you have found a good bakery in your neighborhood, visit regularly. They are institutions and offer interesting information about the local area.
02 The ‘3 plans par arrondissement’ is by far the best local map, and so compact that it takes up little space in a bag.
03 The seemingly constant flood of locksmith service advertisements in your mailbox may seem annoying, but slip one under your doormat, you may need it!
04 Learn the language, you will find that there are large swathes of Parisian life that you will miss completely if you don’t speak the language.

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Interesting fact

The Eiffel Tower has over 1652 steps to the top. It was built using 2.5 million rivets, 15,000 iron parts and was painted with over 40 tones of paint.

The neighborhoods area to live in Paris vary enormously and appeal to a wide range of tastes and incomes. You will be sure to find something that suits you and your family and caters to your needs. Note that there are private athletic facilities (gyms, studios, etc) in virtually every neighborhood; included in the list below are the public offerings of the city of Paris. Likewise, for more detailed information be sure to consult the individual sections on ‘International Schools’, ‘Supermarkets’, ‘Sports’ and ‘Restaurants’.

First Arrondissement (1er)

You may spend a lot of time in the 1er arrondissement once you are in Paris. After all, the Louvre museum, Notre-Dame cathedral, and many other attractions that tourists come to see are located here, close to the center of the city. The beautiful Tuileries gardens, one of the loveliest of Paris’ public parks, provides a wonderful place to relax. This, however, is not much of a residential neighborhood.

Apartments are few and far between, as are schools, grocery stores, and daycare facilities. In addition, many people who do live here keep their apartments as ‘pieds-à-terres’ for weekend trips to the city, so in the evening the streets can be surprisingly deserted and melancholy. There are, however, plentiful shops and restaurants, and some fabulous hotels, so it could be a very pleasant base for house-hunting, or a quick reconnaissance trip to scope out the city.

Second Arrondissement (2e)

This is not really a residential area either, although it is becoming more popular with trendy Parisians as a place to live, and not just go out. La Bourse (the Stock Exchange) is the tiny area’s main occupant, while financial offices of every type and nationality, airline offices, travel agencies, and insurance companies take up much of the rest of the space. There are apartments, mostly in the western edge, clustered around rue Montorgueil where cafes, cinemas and theaters keep the area alive well into the night.

  • International Schools: No
  • Supermarkets: Small local chains
  • Restaurants: Wide range of French, Italian and takeout restaurants
  • Cinemas: Le Grand Rex, Gaumont Opera
  • Sports Facilities: Private

The Marais (3e and 4e)

The Third and Fourth Arrondissements are known as the Marais, literally swampland, that was once part of the riverbed of the Seine. It is overall a trendy area with small, narrow streets and refurbished buildings that evoke the historical Paris of 300 years ago. The Marais escaped the 19th century restructuring of Paris and retains the medieval character of its streets and buildings. You will find here ‘hôtels particuliers’, lavish mansions which have been turned into museums, cultural centers, government offices and – for some lucky occupants – apartment buildings. Organized around a central cobblestone courtyard, often with a garden or fountain, they are delightful respites from the bustling city, but rare and expensive. The Marais was once, and is again, a Jewish neighborhood, bustling on Sundays, when the rest of the sleepy city is closed. There are supermarkets, art galleries, restaurants, fashion shops and nightspots throughout, but no metro station and not much street parking. Nonetheless it is a very popular area with expatriates, who flock to its charming buildings and the beautiful Place des Vosges, one of the loveliest squares of Paris.

The Latin Quarter and St-Germain (5e and 6e)

Encompassing the Fifth Arrondissement and some of the Sixth, the Quartier Latin can be an exciting place to live. The famous Sorbonne, founded in 1230, is just one part of the seventeen-school University of Paris system, most of which is located here. In addition, the arrondissiment contains many institutions, like the Institut du Monde Arabe, a government ministry, the Val-de-Grace hospital, museums, a botanical garden with a zoo, and the grand Pantheon. Luckily for those who live in the area, it still remains comfortably residential in spite of the tourists these attractions draw. Apartments of all types and lengths of leases can be found here as it is an area that caters to students and faculty.

The larger apartments in the narrow streets north of St-Germain are expensive. The area that borders the 13e is less so and is lively and popular. Just remember not to look for apartments in October, when the students return and are looking for their own.

Move west toward place St-Germain-des-Pres and the area begins to feel more sophisticated. The international bookstores and music shops, offbeat boutiques and foreign film houses give way to antique shops and art galleries, cinemas and theaters, trendy restaurants and upscale boutiques.

Between the laid-back 5e on the east and the reserved 7e on the west, the 6e is one of the most agreeable quartiers in Paris. Housing starts off relatively reasonably priced along the east and gradually becomes more expensive the farther west you go, especially between boulevard St-Germain and the Seine. Around Place St-Sulpice and along streets such as rue de Tournon, rue de l’Odeon, and boulevard Raspail the apartments are large, airy and expensive. This is especially true for buildings overlooking the spectacular Jardin du Luxembourg.

Seventh Arrondissement (7e)

Perhaps when you think of the Seventh, you think only of the Eiffel Tower. The truth is, in fact, that this is one of the most tranquil and comfortable parts of Paris, almost like a suburb in the middle of the city. There are small, discreet commercial areas and some restaurants, but very little evening activity. Apartments are large, gracious and well-maintained, after all, it is where the French prime minister calls home. This is a popular area for families with children. Besides the long and grassy Champ-de-Mars, there are several small playgrounds and a hidden park at Square Recamier. Do not worry about the lack of commerce. The 7e is located between the vibrant Sixth and middle-class Fifteenth, both of which offer every service imaginable.

Eighth Arrondissement (8e)

The Eighth arrondissement has a lot to offer, if you look beyond the ever-touristy Champs-Elysees and the commercial Golden Triangle. Head, instead, to the western edge where you will find Parc Monceau and a very desirable district popular with both Parisians and expatriates. Streets like avenue Hoche, rue de Monceau, and the residential end of the long boulevard Malesherbes are wide and spurt off into small, charming side streets – some that lead directly to the park. Apartments are plush and airy with high ceilings, floor-to-ceiling windows and up-market prices. In general, the elegant atmosphere of the Parc Monceau area and its proximity to the markets and services of the 17e make it a lovely place to live.

Ninth Arrondissement (9e)

While some of the lowest rents and purchase prices can be found in the Ninth Arrondissiment, it would take some careful searching to find a desirable residence. The southwestern edge is home to the famous Opera Garnier, department stores, shops, banks and theaters and is always crowed. To the east is a colorless commercial area and north is boulevard de Clichy, which can be quite sordid. There are some pockets of streets with agreeable character, but they are scarce and often not worth the search.

Tenth Arrondissement (10e)

It is sad to say, but the Tenth Arrondissement of Paris is drab and dreary. The Gare du Nord and the Gare de l’Est are close together and take over much of the area. The housing is working-class and uninspired and the neighborhood is typical of those that exist around train stations, sometimes seedy and distasteful. Towards the east, however, is the Canal Saint-Martin, which is being refurbished and settled by trendy restaurants and shops. This area is sought out by young Parisians who are attracted to its vibrant and open atmosphere, as well as its still relatively low prices. That said, it is still probably not the place to go if you are only in Paris on a temporary basis.

Bastille to Nation (11e and 12e)

A recently popular area of eastern Paris is the southern strip of the Eleventh Arrondissiment and the adjacent northern area of the Twelfth. Rents are still moderate in areas, although they are rising as formerly shabby neighborhoods are spruced up. There are still old-fashioned artisans and furniture makers in the cours and passages, but as rents increase and they are pushed out, new, more upscale and gentrified entities have begun to appear. There are old warehouses converted into lofts, restored buildings, and new apartment blocks. It is a bit of an eclectic mix. In the northern part of the 11e, rue Oberkampf is trendy and south of rue Faubourg-St-Antoine, in the eastern part of the 12e, Allee Vivaldi and Jardin de Reuilly are pleasant with unobtrusive modern housing. The unpretentious, residential districts in the quartiers of Picpus, Bel-Air, and Daumesnil are being revitalized with new shops, offices and housing.

Thirteenth Arrondissement (13e)

Home to Paris’s Chinatown, the 13e consists of impersonal apartment blocks that give the area a homogeneous atmosphere. There are hidden enclaves of the old, charming Paris. By the unassuming Place de l’Abbe Henocque are little streets of private houses and gardens and to the northwest is la Butte aux Cailles, an intricate set of hilly streets with old-world charm and small town flavor. There are special finds here, but they surface very rarely.

Fourteenth Arrondissement (14e)

The residential part of the arrondissiment known primarily for Montparnasse begins around the expansive Place Denfert-Rochereau. Broad streets close to the square have stately buildings and an open atmosphere. Renovated studios and apartments with quiet courtyards nestle in some of the short streets and artists’ ateliers still dot the entire area. It is the southern part of the 14e, however, that has it all. Parc Montsouris has beautiful gardens, a charming, terraced restaurant, a lake and apartments that overlook it. Adjacent, and throughout the area, are the villas of private homes. Across boulevard Jourdan, in a green expanse, is the Cite Universitaire, a student city since the 1920’s with 37 international residences providing the residents with an eclectic atmosphere.

Fifteenth Arrondissement (15e)

This is the largest arrondissement with the highest population in Paris. It is a middle-class haven full of young Parisian families, middle-level professionals and retired persons. Prices in the 15e are moderate compared to other areas on the Left bank or in the 16e just across the Seine. This area next to the Seine just went over a major reconstruction. Old, (frankly) ugly buildings were demolished and a sleek new commercial center and shopping area have taken over. Apartment prices have increased as the proximity to shops, restaurants and a cinema make this a much more interesting, and desirable, location.

Throughout the arrondissement some little communities exist and flourish. For example, the commercial rue de Commerce, with its shuttered houses, looks much as it might have fifty years ago. Or, around Place St-Charles, there are graceful Belle Epoque buildings that break up the modernity that characterizes most of the neighborhoods. This is a practical neighborhood, but not necessarily a charming or exciting one. You can certainly find agreeable residential pockets that are not modern apartment blocks, but if you want more personality and charm, you should search elsewhere.

Sixteenth Arrondissement (16e)

The Sixteenth Arrondissement is an extremely suitable area for families with children. There are numerous parks and schools and over-all, the feel is that of a small-town. It is an arrondissement known for its tranquility and for its graceful mid-rise buildings with spacious, costly apartments. There are even little villas and hameaux, leafy lanes with a country feel. The streets around Avenue Foch and the avenue itself, traditionally home to Parisian wealth, are residential. Close by, avenue Victor-Hugo is also chic and expensive. The areas around Porte de la Muette and Place du Trocadero and along the avenue Georges-Mandel that becomes avenue Henri-Martin have attractive apartments that are close to the Jardins du Ranelagh and to the Bois de Boulogne, making them popular for families. Two “villages” still remain in the arrondissement, complete with church squares, main streets and residential neighborhoods. Passy and Auteuil were among the last areas to be incorporated into the city systems and were really villages amidst farmland and forest stretching west. Housing anywhere in this area is generally expensive, often interesting, and it is a popular area for foreign residents.

Seventeenth Arrondissement (17e)

Most of the 17th is residential, but with quite contrary vibes. It is cut neatly in two by the railroad tracks heading out of Gare St. Lazare, with the western area open and up-market, and the eastern decidedly working-class and crowded. Life in the Seventeenth Arrondissement can be very good if you opt for the more affluent and genteel western side. The area is convenient to the markets at rue de Levis and rue Poncelet and there are solid quartiers, which retain the charms of small towns. The broad avenues give a feeling of openness and are surrounded by graceful apartments. This area has a perfect mix of commerce and residence.

Eighteenth Arrondissement (18e)

While there are some wonderful residential recesses and charming squares between Sacre-Coeur and the Montmartre cemetery, there are also disadvantages to living in this hilly area with winding narrow streets. The views and atmosphere are fabulous, but prices keep in step. You can find both older and modernized homes, but not much parking. If the out-of-the-way location does not bother you, have a look. Rue des Abbesses, intersecting with rue Lepic, the famous market street, or west, near rue Damremont are good places to start. The rest of the 18e is not recommended with its dubious nightlife and charmless tourist shops.

Belleville and Menilmontant (19e and 20e)

The 19e and 20e were incorporated into Paris in 1860 and today are closely intertwined, as they were in the past. At the northeastern tip is the ultra-modern La Villette, a 55-hectare green expanse, science museum, and entertainment complex. In the daytime families come for the museum, children’s programs, the theme gardens, the canal-side promenades, and bicycle paths. In the evening, entertainment takes over. It is a fun place to spend time, but not really much of a residential district.

The residential side of the area can be found from Buttes-Chaumont to Place du Rhin-et-Danube. It is close to the beautiful parc des Buttes-Chaumont and is very agreeable. Off of rue Mouzaia and rue du General-Brunet there are the villas of private houses. Also interesting are some parts of rue de Belleville, still the main street of a small town. But, mixed in with the attractive housing are dilapidated buildings and faceless high-rises. These arrondissements are far from international schools and are not very popular with expatriates.

Parisian Suburbs

Many foreign residents, especially those with families, live in the suburbs (banlieues), which offer a tranquil lifestyle, spacious homes with backyards or gardens, and proximity to many of the international schools. The suburbs are categorized by those that are near (la proche banlieue) and connected to Paris by the metro, and those that are farther out (les banlieues plus eloignees), reachable by RER. La banlieue ouest (western suburbs) are most in demand, especially by new arrivals to Paris. The standard of living is high, and housing affords more space for the same prices as in the city center. You must have a car, though, as not all services or shopping needs can be found in every small town.

If you are interested in life outside of Paris itself, look at:

Neuilly-sur-Seine

Elegant Neuilly-sur-Seine is an extremely desirable area, just four miles due west of Paris. Dating from the 13th century, this venerable community is home to many prominent French families and celebrities who value the greenery and discretion of the neighborhood. Behind the high leafy walls flanking the streets are some of the loveliest mansions of the Ile-de-France. Within easy reach of the excellent international schools of St Cloud and the 16th arrondissement, and the location of the American Hospital, Neuilly-sur-Seine is a very desirable – and, thus, expensive – option for expatriates.

St Cloud

The pretty, hilly town of St Cloud has a fabled history; it is reputed to have been founded by the grandson of King Clovis I. A beautiful park contains the remains of the 16th century Chateau de St Cloud. There is also a spectacular Parc de St Cloud, one of the largest in the entire Ile de France. Many sports and country clubs are also located here (see ‘Country Clubs’ for further details), and the proximity of some excellent international schools make this a very pleasant neighborhood for expats. It is, accordingly, one of the most expensive neighborhoods of Paris and its suburbs.

Levallois-Perret

Just four miles northwest of Paris, Levallois-Perret is a tranquil and leafy suburban oasis. More modern than the historic suburbs of St Cloud and Neuilly-sur-Seine, it played an important role in 19th and 20th century French manufacturing as the headquarters of Citroen. A very welcoming, neighborhood atmosphere is its best quality today, with a great deal of organized sport and leisure activities for children, adults and senior citizens. It even has a chalet in the Alps reserved for the use of its residents!

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